2023 Dexter Black Label Chardonnay, Mornington Peninsula

Ah this is good. Really good. It combines complexity and detail with refreshment and pleasure. Delicate at first, offering a hint of lemon blossom, chamomile and nougat aromas. The palate starts gently, too, lemon and grapefruit infused with a light dusting of ginger powder and fresh galangal. Then flavours build and texture kicks in – the fine, creamy lees, which are moreish as much as savoury, with the fine thread of acidity tying everything together.

96 points Jane Faulkner winecompanion.com.au

Dexter Black Label Chardonnay from the Mornington Peninsula is a powerful yet intricately detailed white that showcases the precision, depth, and cool-climate elegance that define the region’s best Chardonnay. Crafted by Tod Dexter, one of the pioneers of premium Chardonnay and Pinot Noir in Victoria, this Black Label bottling represents the most focused and age-worthy expression in the Dexter portfolio.

Sourced from low-yielding estate vines in Merricks North, the fruit benefits from the region’s maritime influence—cool nights, moderate daytime temperatures, and ocean breezes that preserve acidity and aromatic lift. The vineyard’s clay loam soils over basalt add texture and complexity, while meticulous vineyard work ensures only the finest fruit is selected for the Black Label.

Winemaker Tod Dexter brings decades of experience to the table, having honed his craft at Stonier and Yabby Lake before establishing his own label. The Black Label Chardonnay is whole-bunch pressed and wild fermented in French oak (about 30 percent new), followed by full malolactic fermentation and extended lees ageing. The result is a wine of intensity, complexity, and finesse.

On the nose, it opens with aromas of white peach, struck match, lemon curd, and grilled nuts. The palate is layered and finely structured, offering citrus, stone fruit, flinty minerality, and creamy texture balanced by taut acidity and a savoury, persistent finish.

This is a Chardonnay of real pedigree—built to age, yet deeply satisfying in its youth. A benchmark expression from one of the Mornington Peninsula’s most skilled hands.