2023 Domaine Huet Vouvray Clos du Bourg Sec, Loire Valley

The aromas of floral honey, cashew nuts and butter are married to a brioche character reminiscent of good Champagne, but this is completely still. On the medium-bodied palate, the interplay of honeyed creaminess and elegant acidity is enchanting, the wine gliding over your palate. Long, supple finish.

93 points Stuart Pigott jamessuckling.com

Perched on the Première Côte just above the town of Vouvray, Clos du Bourg is a monopole and generally regarded as the greatest of the three Huet single vineyards. It has been farmed by the domaine since 1953 and was purchased in 1963. Arguably the region’s greatest vineyard, Clos du Bourg makes some of Europe's most powerful, thrilling and long-lived white wines. With only one metre of topsoil over solid limestone, the vines immediately tap into the mineral resources underfoot. The warmth of the site, combined with the mineral complexion of the soils, results in rich, long-lived wines that effortlessly combine intense, charged minerality with generous texture and concentration.

Domaine Huet Vouvray Clos du Bourg Sec is an exceptional expression of Chenin Blanc from one of the Loire Valley's most iconic producers. Domaine Huet, founded in 1928, has earned a global reputation for its ability to showcase the versatility and complexity of Chenin Blanc, particularly from Vouvray, one of the world’s great white wine appellations. The Clos du Bourg vineyard, considered the jewel of Huet’s holdings, consistently produces wines of remarkable precision, energy, and aging potential.

The Clos du Bourg vineyard is a historic, walled site (clos) with shallow, stony limestone soils over tuffeau, a soft, chalky rock unique to the Loire. This terroir imparts a distinct minerality and tension to the wine, while the vineyard's proximity to the Loire River moderates the climate, allowing the Chenin Blanc to ripen fully while retaining vibrant acidity.

The winemaking philosophy at Domaine Huet is rooted in biodynamics, a practice they adopted in 1988, ensuring that the vineyard’s health and expression of terroir remain paramount. Grapes are hand-harvested in multiple passes to select fruit at perfect ripeness. Fermentation takes place with indigenous yeasts in a combination of stainless steel and large oak casks, preserving freshness while building texture and complexity.

In the glass, Clos du Bourg Sec reveals a brilliant pale gold hue. The nose is captivating and layered, with aromas of ripe pear, green apple, and quince, interwoven with notes of honeysuckle, citrus zest, and flinty minerality. On the palate, it is dry, energetic, and full of tension, with a crystalline purity. The flavors of orchard fruits, lemon, and subtle spice are carried by a fine acidity and an unmistakable mineral backbone that leads to a long, precise finish.

This Vouvray is a versatile food companion. It pairs beautifully with shellfish, pan-seared scallops, roast chicken, or creamy vegetable dishes. Its acidity and minerality also make it an excellent match for goat cheese or lightly spiced Asian cuisine. While approachable in its youth, the Clos du Bourg Sec can age gracefully for 10-20 years, gaining complexity and a richer texture over time.