2023 Dry River Chardonnay, Martinborough

A restrained nose with cool-toned aromas of lime leaf, wet stone and subtle white flowers. The palate is taut, tangy and compact. The mid-weight grapefruit, green apple, yoghurt and oyster-shell flavours are trimmed in dry, chalky tannins and driven by a wave of salty acidity. Excellent definition and clarity of expression right to the finish before a whiff of flint and smoky wood makes an appearance. This tightly coiled, modern, cool-climate chardonnay is long, lean and deceptively powerful, disguised by sleekness and elegance. It can be cellared confidently for a decade at least. Drink to 2040.

96 points Stephen Wong for The Real Review, February 2025

The 2023 Chardonnay is nutty and elegant, and the fruit is plump but restrained; it courses from the mid-palate and through the finish with all the seamlessness of scissors cutting through wrapping paper with nary a snag. This is lightweight but all in proportion and balance, and I find the quiet nature of it to be a beautiful thing. It's graceful, elegant and quiet. Drink to 2033.

95 points Erin Larkin for The Wine Advocate, January 2025

This chardonnay has a solid structure and pretty fruit with dried apples, light pie crust and some nuts on both the nose and the palate. It’s medium-bodied with an open palate and a flavorful finish. Lovely to drink now.

94 points James Suckling, November 2024

Dry River Wines is one of the founding estates of on Martinborough Terrace in southern Wairarapa on New Zealand’s North Island. Established in 1979 by Neil and Dawn McCallum, the iconic name is back in local hands after a couple of decades under American ownership, with Wellington-based Charlie Zheng acquiring the estate in early 2026.

All wines are made from estate fruit grown in the deep alluvial gravel soils near the Ruamahunga River. A strong ethos founded on organic and biodynamic practices guides the work across the three dry grown and regeneratively farmed sites. The total of twelve hectares across the three were planted from 1979 to 1992 to Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer and Riesling. Meticulous canopy management is fundamental here and crop-thinning a common practice, all work aiming to provide premium fruit that is handled in an obsessive manner at the winery, with each bunch rinsed of dust, dried and destemmed by hand.  

Ben McNab was appointed winemaker after the 2026 ownership change. A local third-generation farmer, he comes to Dry River from Palliser Estate with a vineyard led approach and a deep respect for the traditions and heritage he is now custodian to. We look forward to the future shippings continuing the complex, savoury and cellar-worthy styles we’ve come to expect from this wonderful producer.