2023 Famille Hugel Gentil, Alsace

This has quite an aromatic complexity, with spicy, floral and nutty notes. Charming and medium-bodied with a very satisfying balance of juiciness and citrusy freshness that lights up the long finish. A cuvee of 30% gewurztraminer, 23.5% pinot gris, 18.7% riesling, 18% sylvaner, 6% pinot blanc and 3.8% muscat. Drink now.

91 points jamessuckling.com

The 2023 Famille Hugel Gentil is a joyful, aromatic white that brings together several of Alsace’s noble grape varieties into a seamless, refreshing blend. This wine revives a centuries-old Alsatian tradition of field blends, but with a modern twist and meticulous winemaking. It’s crafted by one of Alsace’s most historic producers, the Hugel family of Riquewihr, who have been making wine in the region since 1639.

The Gentil blend is always dominated by Riesling, providing structure and drive, with the aromatic lift of Gewürztraminer, the roundness of Pinot Gris, the finesse of Muscat, and the crispness of Sylvaner and Pinot Blanc. The 2023 vintage was fresh and bright, marked by an extended ripening season that allowed each component to reach ideal maturity. Grapes are sourced from estate and partner vineyards across the Haut-Rhin, primarily on limestone and clay soils.

Each grape variety is vinified separately in stainless steel using indigenous yeasts, and blending only occurs just before bottling. This preserves the varietal expression of each component and gives the wine its trademark balance and charm.

In the glass, the wine is pale gold with aromas of white peach, lychee, lemon blossom and a subtle hint of spice and honeysuckle. The palate is soft and fresh, with citrus zest, orchard fruit and a delicate herbal note. There’s a beautiful interplay between vibrancy and gentle texture, finishing clean and dry with just a whisper of floral sweetness.

It’s a hugely versatile white that shines with Vietnamese rice paper rolls, mild Indian curries, roast chicken with tarragon or a picnic spread of cheeses, pâté and baguette. Best enjoyed young while its fragrance and freshness are at their peak.