2023 Fermoy Estate Reserve Chardonnay, Margaret River

Another wonderful example of the outstanding chardonnays coming off this established Margaret River vineyard. Follows a line of handpicking and whole bunch pressing with wild fermentation and nine months in oak. The primary fruit of grapefruit and cut lime with some light brioche reveal their subtle qualities on the nose. The palate has a steeling linear feel to it but that in many ways conceals its sustained power and intensity. A precise and focussed wine with so much potential. Drink to 2033.

97 points Ray Jordan, Wine Review 2026

Given the winemaking inputs (45% new French barriques, aged nine months, regular lees stirring, and about 75% went through mlf), this is still very tight, almost gangly, with the oak dominating. Time should resolve all that, allowing it to loosen up. Open this today and expect a light offering of lemon/grapefruit, woodsy spices, curry leaves and creamy lees. While it finishes short, it’s a refreshing drink. Drink 2025 to 2033.

91 points Jane Faulkner for Halliday Wine Companion, July 2025

Fermoy Estate sits by the Wilyabrup Brook just a few kilometres from the Indian Ocean in the heart of northern Margaret River. The estate vineyards sit on the gravelly loam that, with the region’s mild maritime climate, contribute to its world-famous wines. Established in 1985, senior winemaker Jeremy Hodgson and vineyard manager Andy Keig have worked side by side since 2014.

Margaret River had a late cool spring ahead of the 2023 season and very dry conditions over the summer. Thanks to the overall even temperatures and cool nights, the vines matured fruit that had good balance of flavours and acidity. The Gin Gin clone fruit for this wine was handpicked from two parcels, and whole-bunch pressed straight into barrels. Wild yeast fermented, allowed to undergo partial malolactic, and lees stirred for added weight, texture and complexity. Matured for ten months in French oak barrels of which 40% were new. The blended components rested further on lees ahead of bottling.

The wine remains youthful on release, leading with primary citrus fruit and subtle bakery notes. The palate is precise and tightly coiled, and will need a few years to show its full expression.

Give the wine plenty of air if patience is not your virtue and pair with crisp, clean textures and high vibrancy: warm oysters with white miso and finger lime or sashimi of coral trout or flounder.