2023 Fetherston Estate Pinot Noir, Yarra Valley

Made from two parcels of pinot grown at Yarra Glen (77%) and Gembrook (23%). A light, bright cherry red. An open-knit nose with its scents of red fruits, florals and just a little undergrowth starting to emerge. Easygoing and well balanced on the light- to medium-framed palate. Finishes with fine, gently grippy tannins, suggesting that this should open up and become more complex in the short to medium term.

91 points Philip Rich winecompanion.com.au

Fetherston Estate Pinot Noir from the Yarra Valley is a quietly confident and beautifully perfumed expression of cool climate Pinot, shaped by the meticulous duo Chris Lawrence and Cameron Furlong. Their focus has always been on precision and vineyard transparency, and this wine reflects that ethos with clarity. The fruit comes largely from the cooler Upper Yarra, where volcanic red soils and higher altitude create Pinot with lifted aromatics, fine tannins and bright natural acidity. These vineyards ripen slowly under long autumn light, building delicacy and detail rather than weight.

The winemaking is thoughtful and restrained. Hand picked fruit is fermented in small batches, often with a measured portion of whole bunches to bring savoury lift, spice and structure. Gentle extraction keeps the palate silky and pure. Maturation in French oak, mostly older barrels, shapes the wine without getting in the way. Fetherston is known for leaving plenty of space in their wines for freshness and finesse, and this Pinot embodies that signature.

Aromas rise gracefully from the glass: wild strawberry, red cherry and pomegranate layered with rose petals, orange peel, dried herbs and a hint of forest floor. Subtle notes of spice, cranberry, sandalwood and crushed stone add depth as it breathes, echoing the cool, elevated vineyards of the Upper Yarra.

The palate is all about poise. Red berries move across the tongue with a soft, silken feel, supported by ultra fine tannins and vibrant acidity that keeps everything lively. Flavours of cherry, raspberry, plum skin and gentle spice evolve into savoury undertones of dried leaves, mineral earth and a faint cocoa whisper. The finish is long, bright and delicately textured, leaving a trail of red fruit and cool climate spice. It is immediately charming but has the structure to age gracefully for six to eight years.

This style sits beautifully at the table. It suits duck breast with cherry glaze, roast chicken, pork tenderloin, mushroom gnocchi, grilled salmon, charcuterie, soft cheeses and earthy vegetarian dishes. Slightly cooler serving temperatures emphasise its lift and perfume.