2023 Giesen Clayvin Vineyard Syrah, Marlborough

Fragrant, high-toned, perfumed raspberry and blueberry fruit with sweet florals and white pepper wrapped in sweet vanilla oak. There is a brooding aspect here which compounds on the palate. Earthy, ripe fruit tannins stained with purple fruit flavours and concentrated blueberry/blackberry, driven by energetic acidity. Youthful, and fairly long flavours with dusty wood tannins on the finish. This will meld and develop more complexity in time. Medium-bodied, elegant and energetic. A more perfumed style with quite a bit of oak. Drink 2025–2034.

93 points Stephen Wong for The Real Review, May 2025

Marlborough is not the first place most people think of for Syrah. This is what makes the Clayvin vineyard intriguing. The 13.4ha vineyard sits on a north-facing hillside slope at the top of the Brancott Valley and was established to Burgundian high density in 1993 by viticulturalist Mike Eaton. It is sheltered from southerly winds, with heavy clay soils that hold water through the dry summer months. A single hectare of Syrah occupies the highest part of the slope where a small but critical microclimate advantage makes ripening possible. Giesen purchased the vineyard in 2015 and it is now certified organic.

Destemmed, cold soaked, indigenous yeast fermented with extended maceration before a 15 month rest in French oak with 27% new. Minimal intervention throughout. 

Deep crimson, the nose is aromatic and lifted with otes of blackberry, violet, white pepper and aniseed. Asavoury iron and cocoa thread speaks clearly of the clay soils. The palate is medium-bodied with firm acidity, dusty tannins and a long, cool-climate finish.

Slow-braised beef short ribs or herb crusted venison might work well here. Cantonese roast duck would be a treat with a more mature bottle. Decant for 30 minutes, or allow plenty of time in the glass before enjoying.

Drink now through 2031.