2023 Glenguin Semillon, Hunter Valley

Glenguin Estate was first planted in 1988 and is close to the village of Broke in the Hunter Valley, home of Australia’s two oldest wine styles made from Semillon and Shiraz. In 1999 a few acres of Tannat was planted in ironstone soils on the hill at Glenguin. The vines at Glenguin average 20 years of age with a small plot of 50-year-old vines in Pokolbin. Sustainable viticulture has always been practiced at Glenguin. No pesticides are used and only fully biodegradable applications are made in the vineyard that is like a garden with native grasses growing between the vines.

A single plot of sandy loam over red basalt is responsible for this lightweight semillon, weighing in at a more traditional 11%. Fermented wild, too. Unusual still in these parts. This is very good. Scintillating intensity of flavour with palpably natural acidity and a waft of phenolic pucker making all the difference to the wine's digestibility. Nothing too tangy. Nothing out of place. Lemon oil, grapefruit pulp and dried tatami. Lovely stuff.