2023 Graci Etna Rosso, Mt Etna

Very refined texture and character with sliced berries, cherries, watermelon and oranges on a medium-bodied palate with integrated tannins. The fresh, crunchy finish shows hints of pumice and ash. Drink now or hold.

95 points jamessuckling.com

Graci Etna Rosso is one of the purest expressions of Mount Etna you can find, a wine shaped as much by lava and altitude as by human hands. These vineyards sit high on the northern slopes of Etna, some at well over 600 metres above sea level, where Nerello Mascalese thrives in black volcanic soils that are rich in minerals and full of energy. Days are warm, nights are cool, and the vines are constantly challenged, which is exactly why the wines are so alive.

Alberto Graci is a central figure in Etna’s modern revival. Leaving a career in international finance, he returned to Sicily with a clear vision to let Etna speak for itself. His approach is thoughtful and restrained, focusing on old vineyards, organic farming and minimal intervention in the cellar. Fermentation is gentle, ageing is measured, and the goal is always transparency rather than polish. Graci Etna Rosso is the entry point to the range, but it never feels simple or generic.

In the glass, the wine is vibrant and lifted. Red cherry, wild strawberry and blood orange lead, followed by rose petal, dried herbs and a smoky mineral note that feels unmistakably volcanic. There is a fine savoury edge running through it, with hints of ash, iron and spice. The palate is light on its feet yet persistent, with bright acidity, fine tannins and a long, fresh finish that keeps pulling you back for another sip.

This is a red wine that behaves like a great mountain wine rather than a southern Italian bruiser. It loves food and comes alive at the table. Think grilled vegetables, tuna, pork, mushroom dishes or Sicilian classics built around olive oil and herbs. It is delicious now for its freshness and energy, but it also rewards short to medium term cellaring as the savoury elements deepen and knit together.

Graci Etna Rosso captures the drama of Mount Etna without theatrics. It is honest, volcanic and quietly thrilling, a reminder that some of the world’s most exciting wines come from the edges of the map.