2023 Helm Tumbarumba Riesling, Tumbarumba

The citrus and apple blossom of the bouquet and piercing drive of the palate have Germanic overtones as lime and glittering acidity take control of proceedings. Glorious wine, at an enticing price. Tumbarumba is a relatively new region for riesling, but is ideally suited.

96 points Special Value James Halliday winecompanion.com.au

Helm Tumbarumba Riesling is a pure, high altitude expression that shows just how compelling Riesling can be when grown in one of Australia’s coldest wine regions. Tumbarumba sits on the western slopes of the Snowy Mountains, with vineyards planted at elevation on decomposed granite soils. Cold nights, slow ripening and a long growing season deliver Riesling with piercing natural acidity, pristine aromatics and a strong mineral spine.

Helm Wines has long been a quiet specialist in cool climate varieties, with a particular focus on Riesling. The approach is deliberately minimal and classical. Fruit is picked early to preserve freshness, fermented cool in stainless steel, and bottled without oak influence. The aim is clarity of site and variety, producing Rieslings that are dry, precise and built to age rather than to charm in their youth.

In the glass, the wine is bright and focused. Lime zest, lemon juice and green apple sit at the core, followed by hints of jasmine, talc and wet stone. There is a clean, crystalline quality to the aromatics that immediately signals cool climate origin and careful handling.

On the palate, Helm Tumbarumba Riesling is razor sharp and linear. Citrus flavours drive through the wine, carried by bracing acidity that gives energy and length. The texture is fine and chalky rather than broad, finishing bone dry with a mouthwatering mineral edge that lingers. Nothing is exaggerated. Everything is about tension, purity and persistence.

This is a Riesling that thrives with food and with time. It pairs beautifully with oysters, shellfish, Asian inspired dishes, fresh salads or anything that benefits from acidity and lift. While thrilling in its youth, it will also reward cellaring over ten to fifteen years, developing classic toast, lime marmalade and subtle honeyed notes while retaining its structural backbone.

Helm Tumbarumba Riesling is precise, uncompromising and deeply site driven. A benchmark for the region and a must have for lovers of serious Australian Riesling.