2023 Hewitson Ungrafted Grenache, Barossa Valley

As the label suggests, grenache on its own roots, some 100 years old, whole-bunch fermented. Mid-crimson with characters of raspberry, wild strawberry and red plum. Hints of exotic spice, gingerbread, citrus blossom, white pepper, amaro, roast game and earth. Calm, composed and savoury on the palate, with a deep, earthen bass note that reverberates through the wine. Finishes long with just a murmur of garrigue, some silty, fine tannin and a mineral line.

94 points Dave Brookes winecompanion.com.au

Hewitson Ungrafted Grenache is a rare and compelling Barossa Valley wine, drawn from some of the region’s oldest surviving Grenache vines, planted on their own roots and untouched by phylloxera. These ungrafted vines grow in the deep sandy soils of the Barossa, conditions that allowed Grenache to survive on its original rootstock and develop extraordinary depth, resilience and individuality. Low yields, intense sunlight and warm days tempered by cooler nights produce fruit of remarkable perfume, concentration and natural balance, offering a pure and unfiltered expression of old vine Barossa Grenache.

The wine is the work of Dean Hewitson, one of Australia’s most passionate advocates for old vines and historical vineyards. Hewitson has built his reputation on seeking out and preserving rare sites, and the Ungrafted Grenache is one of his most distinctive projects. His approach is respectful and intuitive, allowing the vineyard to lead rather than shaping the wine through heavy winemaking. Fermentation is handled gently to preserve aromatic lift, and oak is used sparingly so as not to mask the fragile beauty and complexity of Grenache from these ancient vines.

In the glass the wine shows a bright ruby to crimson colour with remarkable clarity. Aromas are highly perfumed and layered, offering wild strawberry, red cherry and raspberry alongside rose petal, dried herbs, spice and a subtle earthy, sandy note. The palate is medium to full bodied yet remarkably refined, delivering pure red fruit, fine, silky tannins and a long, savoury finish carried by natural acidity. It is superb with lamb, charcuterie, grilled vegetables and Mediterranean dishes, and it has the structure to age gracefully for fifteen to twenty years, developing notes of dried flowers, spice and earthy complexity while retaining its elegance.

Hewitson Ungrafted Grenache is a truly special Barossa wine, combining rarity, history and finesse, and offering a glimpse into the flavour of Grenache as it was grown before phylloxera changed the world’s vineyards.