2023 Hither & Yon Aglianico, McLaren Vale

Just over a tonne went to red production in '23, with the rest picked for rosé; 10% whole bunch, with 27 days on skins in total. Sour black cherry, dark plum, dried blackberry, sun-dried herbs, unlit cigar, spice cabinet, iron and fennel seed. This has the dark broodiness one expects, but it equally has the varietally true spike of acidity to firm things up, with the equally expected tannic line tensioning further. This needs a good six months to settle, then it should have plenty of good years ahead.

92 points Marcus Ellis winecompanion.com.au

The Hither & Yon Aglianico from McLaren Vale is a bold and expressive take on one of southern Italy’s most ancient grape varieties, reimagined through the lens of South Australia’s Mediterranean climate. Brothers Richard and Malcolm Leask, the duo behind Hither & Yon, have become known for championing alternative varieties in McLaren Vale, with Aglianico standing out as one of their most exciting plantings. Originally from Campania and Basilicata, Aglianico thrives in warm conditions, and the Vale’s red loam and clay soils bring both richness and structure to the wine while preserving freshness.

In the glass, it is deep ruby with purple hues. The nose is lifted and complex, with aromas of dark cherry, blackberry and plum layered with violet, dried herbs, spice and a touch of earth. On the palate it is full-bodied and structured, with concentrated black fruit flavours wrapped around firm tannins and bright acidity. Subtle oak adds savoury spice, cocoa and hints of leather, while the finish is long, powerful and age-worthy.

Food pairings highlight its strength and savoury edge: slow-cooked lamb shoulder, beef ragu, osso buco, or rich vegetarian dishes like eggplant parmigiana or mushroom ragout. It also pairs beautifully with aged cheeses such as pecorino or Parmigiano Reggiano. With 10 to 15 years of cellaring potential, the wine develops earthy, truffle and tobacco notes while softening into a more elegant and complex expression.