2023 Holyman Project X Pinot Noir, Tamar Valley

The Holyman Project X Pinot Noir from Tasmania’s Tamar Valley is one of Australia’s most intriguing and boundary-pushing Pinot Noirs. Crafted by Joe and Lou Holyman at Stoney Rise, Project X is a true experiment – an attempt to see just how far whole-bunch fermentation can shape Pinot in Tasmania’s cool climate. The result is a wine of perfume, structure and wild, savoury complexity, beloved by collectors and Pinot devotees alike.

The fruit is sourced from estate-grown vines in the Tamar Valley, a region that enjoys long, cool ripening conditions thanks to its proximity to the Bass Strait. This climate is ideal for Pinot Noir, producing grapes with vibrant acidity, fine tannins and aromatic intensity. Project X is unique in that it is made entirely with 100% whole bunches, foot-trodden in small open fermenters. This approach builds layers of spice, structure and a lifted floral character that sets it apart from more conventionally made Tasmanian Pinots.

In the glass it is bright ruby with crimson hues. The bouquet is intoxicating, offering violets, wild herbs, red cherry and cranberry, interlaced with spice, undergrowth, stemmy lift and savoury complexity. On the palate it is medium-bodied and energetic, with tangy red fruits, sappy tannins and vibrant acidity creating tension and drive. The finish is long, savoury and mineral, demanding both attention and patience.

Food pairings suit its wild, structured nature: duck breast with cherry jus, venison carpaccio, or roast quail with thyme. Vegetarian matches include charred beetroot with balsamic glaze, mushroom ragù or grilled halloumi with herbs. Project X is a wine for the cellar, rewarding those who wait – it can evolve beautifully over 10 to 15 years, gaining more earth, spice and truffle character while softening its youthful energy.