2023 Immich-Batterieberg Enkircher Ellergrub Grand Cru Riesling, Mosel

The incredible wild herb and licorice aromas pull you inexorably into this enormously structured yet only medium-bodied dry Mosel riesling. Very radical, also radically minerally and dry on the medium-bodied palate. Yet the animating acidity is almost totally below the waterline, like a whale invisibly following a ship. There’s amazing depth and originality in the wild herb and wet stone finish. From organically grown grapes.

96 points James Suckling

Immich Batterieberg has called Enkirch home since 1425, and under Gernot Kollmann the estate has once again become one of the most compelling sources of dry Riesling in the Mosel. Much of that resurgence has come from returning attention to Enkirch’s historic vineyards, sites that were enormously prized before the twentieth century reshaped the hierarchy of the region. Ellergrub is one of the jewels of that collection.

Enkircher Ellergrub is an extraordinarily steep, terraced vineyard with very old, largely ungrafted Riesling vines rooted deeply into weathered grey and blue slate. Compared with the sheer power of Batterieberg, Ellergrub can be wonderfully aromatic and intricate, combining delicacy with surprising concentration. The excellent 2023 vintage gave enough sunshine for beautifully ripe fruit while retaining the acidity and energy that make great Mosel Riesling so thrilling.

Bright straw gold, with lime, white peach and ripe grapefruit opening into apricot and green mango. Jasmine, lemon verbena and fresh ginger add perfume, followed by crushed slate, wet stone and a subtle smoky note. The palate has remarkable intensity without heaviness, with citrus and stone fruit carried by bright, mouthwatering acidity. Preserved lemon, grapefruit peel and ginger become increasingly savoury before a long, salty, slate driven finish.

King prawns with ginger, chilli and lime would be superb, alongside steamed snapper with spring onion, Hokkaido scallops with miso butter, pork and prawn dumplings or Vietnamese turmeric fish with dill. Our pick is the dumplings, with plenty of ginger, black vinegar and chilli oil alongside. Serious Riesling does not require serious food.

Cellaring: Drink from 2027 to 2043+.