2023 Jean-Baptiste Souillard Saint-Joseph, Northern Rhone

There are nine Saint-Joseph reds in the Souillard range. Eight are from individual sites spanning the length of the appellation from Saint-Pierre-de-Boeuf in the north to Saint-Jean-de-Muzols in the south. This is the only blended cuvée, drawn chiefly from Estate vineyards in Sarras and Andance in the centre of the appellation. Souillard estimated the average age of the vines to be 40 years. Many of these parcels are high on the slope at around 300 metres, facing east and on 40 centimetres of decomposed granite over granite bedrock.

Jean Baptiste Souillard Saint Joseph from the Northern Rhone is an elegant and terroir-driven Syrah that showcases the purity and finesse for which this rising producer has become renowned. Souillard, a meticulous artisan based in the northernmost part of the region, crafts small quantities of wine from single parcels across Saint Joseph, Cornas and Crozes Hermitage. His philosophy is simple but uncompromising — minimal intervention in both vineyard and cellar to allow each site to speak with clarity and authenticity.

The fruit for his Saint Joseph comes from steep, granite-laced slopes in the northern reaches of the appellation, where the soils are poor and well-drained and the vines dig deep for nutrients. The grapes are hand harvested, often from old vines, and fermented with wild yeasts in whole bunches or with only gentle destemming depending on vintage. Ageing takes place in older French oak barrels for around 12 months, with no fining or filtration. The result is a wine of remarkable perfume, purity and tension — an artisanal expression of Syrah that leans toward grace over power.

In the glass it shows deep ruby with purple glints. The aroma is lifted and aromatic, offering blackberry, black cherry and raspberry woven through with violet, olive, white pepper, smoked meat and graphite. The palate is medium bodied and finely textured, with fresh acidity and beautifully integrated tannins supporting pure dark fruit and savoury spice. There’s a long, mineral finish with a touch of wild herbs and smoke, perfectly capturing the cool, stony essence of northern Saint Joseph.

It pairs superbly with duck breast, roast lamb, mushroom dishes, or chargrilled vegetables. It also complements charcuterie, aged Comté or earthy winter stews. While it’s wonderfully expressive now, it will evolve gracefully for 10 to 15 years, gaining layers of spice, truffle and savoury depth.