2023 Josef Chromy Sauvignon Blanc, Northern Tasmania

An estate-sourced pinot gris, crisp and minerally with just a swagger of texture as it travels across the palate. Pear, red apple, melon, and grapefruit tones meld with hints of fennel, ginger, stone, white flowers, marzipan and persimmon. There's some great focus here and a real clarity and velocity to the wine's form, finishing dry and refreshing. A lot to like here.

92 points Dave Brookes winecompanion.com.au

After escaping from Czechoslovakia in 1950, establishing Blue Ribbon Meats, using the proceeds of that sale to buy Rochecombe and Heemskerk vineyards, then selling those and establishing Tamar Ridge before it, too, was sold, Joe is at it again: this time he’s invested $40 million in a wine-based business. If this were not remarkable enough, Joe is in his 80s, and has recovered from a major stroke. The foundation of the new wine business is the Old Stornoway Vineyard, with 60ha of mature vines, the lion’s share to pinot noir and chardonnay. Joe’s grandson, Dean Cocker, is business manager of the restaurant, function and wine centre.

Intense tropical fruits of guava and melon provide a juicy full mid-palate with nicely framed ginger spice and chalky tannins. The lemon-lime acidity is fresh and light, providing the textural palate with focus and length.