2023 Kooyong Farrago Chardonnay, Mornington Peninsula

To say there’s more fruit weight to Farrago compared to its sibling Faultline, or even the Estate wine, doesn’t meant this is fruity; it isn’t. Plenty of citrus here but joining in the charm factor are flavours of white nectarine and peach, sliced ginger and almost a wet stone character. The palate comes out with a little volume of flavour – full of nutty lees, a dash of oak spice. Then the acidity pulls this together to a long finish. Drink 2025 to 2033.

96 points Jane Faulkner for Halliday Wine Companion, Special Value, June 2025

Light straw-yellow colour of a youthful wine. Creamy lees, smoke and singed fur aromas at first. The wine is delicate, reserved and youthful, with fruit-driven flavours of green melon, Granny Smith apple and crunchy pear. A hint of gooseberry later. The finish lingers on well with bright fruit uncomplicated by too much artifact. Very good and has plenty of potential. Drink 2025 to 2038.

96 points Huon Hooke for The Real Review, July 2025

here to start? Maybe with the touch of exotic Asian spices and lemongrass, such an alluring, intriguing aspect of the wine? Or the power of citrus? It’s there to be enjoyed and is beautifully elegant. Or, how about that tight structure? Or the textural element which brings with it an easy flow of all of the above? Well, it really boils down to a little bit of each and the overall effect is a beautifully detailed Mornington Peninsula Chardonnay which slurped up its 11 months maturation in French oak puncheons (20% new) and looks ready to take on the world. Drink 2025 to 2033.

95 points Jeni Port for Wine Pilot, July 2025

The 2023 Chardonnay Farrago is approachable, offering peach juice aromas underpinned by subtle nougat and cedar oak. The palate is compact in texture, while attractive nutty tones build over a supple finish. Drink 2025 to 2030.

92 points Angus Hughson for Vinous, June 2025

Kooyong is a specialist Pinot Noir and Chardonnay producer based at Tuerong on the Mornington Peninsula, where the Gjergja family has farmed 40 hectares of estate vines since 1996. The Farrago is one of five distinct single blocks vinified separately. This block covers 0.7 hectares of 25-year-old Chardonnay vines within the larger 2.76 hectare Farrago site, on sedimentary soils with a high concentration of ironstone pebbles — a siliceous influence that drives linearity and minerality through the wine.

The 2023 spring was the wettest in 25 years on the Mornington Peninsula, with waterlogged soils extending the flowering period. Conditions recovered through January and February, and the mild, steady finish to the season allowed for slow and even ripening. The fruit quality was exceptional.

Whole bunch pressed directly to predominantly seasoned French oak puncheons and fermented spontaneously with ambient yeasts. The wine was aged on lees for 11 months without stirring and racked once before bottling, with no fining and minimal filtration.

The Farrago carries a touch more fruit generosity than its sibling Faultline without ever becoming fruity. Citrus leads, joined by white nectarine, peach and sliced ginger, with wet stone and pink grapefruit adding intrigue on the nose. The palate has a pleasing volume of flavour: nutty lees, a dash of oak spice before the acidity pulls everything into focus on a long, mouthwatering finish. Beautifully detailed and already drinking well.

Open well ahead of serving and enjoy alongside freshwater crayfish, pan-roasted fish or a well-made chicken dish with cream and herbs. Drink now through 2033.