2023 L&C Poitout Chablis AC, Beaune

L and C Poitout Chablis AC is a classic, terroir driven Chardonnay that shows exactly why Chablis sits in a league of its own within Burgundy. The vineyards lie on the rolling slopes around the town of Chablis, rooted in Kimmeridgian limestone and ancient marine fossils that were once the floor of a prehistoric sea. These chalky, shell strewn soils are the secret behind Chablis’ trademark flinty, saline character, giving the wine a savoury edge that you simply do not find in warmer parts of Burgundy. The Poitout family has long been based in Beaune, acting as négociants and growers who specialise in selecting top quality fruit from trusted vineyard partners, then vinifying it with a light hand so that site and vintage speak clearly rather than being masked by oak.

In the glass this Chablis is pale straw with a green glint, opening with aromas of lemon peel, white peach, green apple and subtle white flowers, layered with that unmistakable oyster shell and wet stone note. The palate is taut and precise, driven by citrus and pear, with a fine chalky texture and a saline finish that makes it incredibly refreshing and dangerously drinkable. It is made for the table, shining with oysters, scallops, grilled fish, sushi, roast chicken and fresh goat’s cheese, yet it also has the structure to age gracefully for five to eight years, picking up hazelnut, honey and more savoury complexity as it evolves.