2023 Lambert Chardonnay, Yarra Valley

It’s a juicier iteration of this wine, offering plenty of Chardonnay flavour. It tastes of cling peach, lemon oil, pink grapefruit and has a distinct aniseed perfume, plus gentle spice. It’s a little bit creamy, a little bit nutty/savoury, though does have plenty of ripe grapefruit zing to it, a fine chalky grip, and plenty of length, with an almost Fruit Tingle buzz to it. Flavour with texture. Yum.

95 points Gary Walsh winefront.com.au

Lambert’s crystalline 2023 Chardonnay is drawn from its usual plot of clone 95 Chardonnay at the top of the east-facing slope in Denton Vineyard. Here, the granitic soils are elevated and are considerably thinner than further down the slope where the Crudo vines (P58) are located. Clone 95 is an early-ripening clone with small canopies and berries, so Luke pays particular attention to managing sun exposure and picking dates for these vines.

The winemaking is typical Lambert. The fruit is pressed as whole bunches, ferments naturally and matures in a 2000-litre foudre with a touch more lees stirring this year to build texture around the bright, citrusy frame. Luke has often told us that Denton’s granitic character can be seen most acutely in Chardonnay, and all that mineral tension, stone fruit and river stone flavour screams through in this cracking vintage.