2023 Laurent Roumier Bonnes Mares Grand Cru, Burgundy

Bonnes Mares is one of the great Grand Crus of the Côte de Nuits, straddling Chambolle Musigny and Morey Saint Denis, and in the hands of Laurent Roumier it becomes a study in power shaped by precision. Laurent Roumier, nephew of the legendary Christophe Roumier, works his family holdings with a traditional philosophy, focusing on low yields, careful vineyard management and measured oak to allow the vineyard to speak. Bonnes Mares is famed for its complex soils of clay over limestone, producing Pinot Noir that combines muscular structure with aromatic refinement. It is a vineyard that demands patience and respect, and Roumier’s approach honours its grandeur without excess.

The colour is deep ruby with a darker garnet core, hinting at the concentration within. Aromas unfold slowly, revealing black cherry, blackberry and dark plum layered with violet, crushed rose petal and subtle spice. There is an earthy depth beneath the fruit, notes of forest floor, graphite and a faint gamey nuance that speak clearly of Grand Cru pedigree.

On the palate it is full bodied yet remarkably controlled. Dark berry fruit sits at the centre, framed by firm, finely etched tannins and vibrant acidity that promise longevity. Layers of clove, cocoa and discreet oak build through the mid palate, while a strong mineral backbone carries the wine to a long, resonant finish. It has the structure and authority expected of Bonnes Mares, balanced by elegance and detail.

Pair with roast venison, beef Wellington, duck with black cherry reduction or truffle infused dishes. This is a wine built for the cellar, best approached after ten years and capable of evolving for thirty years or more, developing profound savoury and tertiary complexity.