2023 Laurenz V. Charming Reserve Gruner Veltliner, Kamptal

Sliced apples, nectarines and fresh mangoes on the nose, followed by a creamy, ripe and medium- to full-bodied palate. Lovely just-ripe stone- and yellow-fruit character. Drink now. Screw cap.

91 points James Suckling

Laurenz V. is the creation of Laurenz Moser V, a member of one of Austria’s great wine families who decided that Grüner Veltliner deserved his undivided attention. Charming Reserve is a serious step up from the breezy Singing, showing the richer, more textural side of the grape while keeping the peppery freshness that makes Grüner so distinctive. It is generous without becoming cumbersome, and very much a wine for the table.

The fruit comes from mature vineyards in the Kamptal, where warm days are tempered by cool air flowing into the valley at night. Loess and rocky soils give Grüner plenty of flavour and texture, while those temperature swings help preserve acidity and aromatic detail. The 2023 has good depth and ripeness, giving Charming Reserve its characteristic breadth while retaining a fresh, savoury backbone.

Bright straw gold, the bouquet starts with ripe pear, quince and yellow apple, followed by white peach, lemon oil and chamomile. White pepper, fennel seed, celery leaf and fresh almond provide the unmistakable Grüner signature. The palate is broad and silky, with ripe orchard fruit and preserved lemon wrapped around a gently creamy texture. Pepper, herbs and roasted almond bring savoury complexity before a long, dry finish with citrus oil and a subtle mineral bite.

Try it with crispy pork belly with ginger and five spice, grilled prawns with lemongrass butter, chicken schnitzel with cucumber salad, scallops with cauliflower and brown butter or charred cabbage with miso and sesame. Our pick is the pork belly. Crisp crackling, sweet pork and five spice against Grüner’s pear, pepper and savoury texture is a very persuasive combination.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2033.