2023 Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnay, Margaret River

This brilliant Chardonnay will surely come to be ranked, not only amongst the best ever from this legendary estate, not only among the best from this thrilling region, but among the best Australia has ever made. This is Grand Cru quality at what has sadly become Village pricing. A profound Chardonnay destined to become a bucketlist wine. A very pale lemon with a vaguely green hint running through it, this is pristine, intense, beautifully balanced and seamless. The oak has almost been completely absorbed, although it is fair to say that it'll probably look even better in twelve months. The wine is, however, immensely enjoyable now. The nose reveals hints of apricot flesh, limes, citrus skins, oatmeal, Madagascan vanilla, gentle touches of grilled cashews, stonefruits and jasmine. Such intensity but meshed with freshness, energy and elegance. Powerful but poised, there is incredible length here, seemingly never-ending, with laser-sharp acidity just one of the many components.There is complexity already evident, although one suspects it is a shadow of what is to come. The intensity never wavers for an instant over the full journey. Stunning stuff, it will still be magnificent in twenty years, likely even more so, and still have life ahead of it. Leeuwin have made some mindbogglingly good Chardonnays over the years, but I think none better. Drink 2026-2029

99 points Ken Gargett, Wine Pilot, April 2026

This brilliant Chardonnay will surely come to be ranked, not only amongst the best ever from this legendary estate, not only among the best from this thrilling region, but among the best Australia has ever made. This is Grand Cru quality at what has sadly become Village pricing. A profound Chardonnay destined to become a bucketlist wine. 

A very pale lemon with a vaguely green hint running through it, this is pristine, intense, beautifully balanced and seamless. The oak has almost been completely absorbed, although it is fair to say that it'll probably look even better in twelve months. The wine is, however, immensely enjoyable now. The nose reveals hints of apricot flesh, limes, citrus skins, oatmeal, Madagascan vanilla, gentle touches of grilled cashews, stonefruits and jasmine. Such intensity but meshed with freshness, energy and elegance. Powerful but poised, there is incredible length here, seemingly never-ending, with laser-sharp acidity just one of the many components. There is complexity already evident, although one suspects it is a shadow of what is to come. The intensity never wavers for an instant over the full journey. Stunning stuff, it will still be magnificent in twenty years, likely even more so, and still have life ahead of it. Leeuwin have made some mindbogglingly good Chardonnays over the years, but I think none better. 99.

Light bright yellow, a very youthful colour for a 2023, and the bouquet is likewise fresh but also seriously detailed, with creamy lees, malt, nougat, beeswax and custard apple aromas, the palate similarly complex and profound, with a chew of oaky tannins that lingers on the aftertaste. Long, long carry. A very powerful chardonnay, searingly intense and strongly structured, and needing more time yet to come into full harmony. Outstanding.

98 points Huon Hooke, The Real Review, March 2026

As you’d expect from an excellent vintage and a producer of exceptional chardonnay, this is superb. It glimmers light straw and olive in the glass, and it’s superbly modulated – from the flavours to the texture. It is quite a pared-back style, tight and linear with restrained power, savoury and moreish. Just another cracking Art Series Chardonnay. Drink 2027-2038.

97+ points Jane Faulkner, Halliday Wine Companion, April 2026

From one of Margaret River’s most iconic vineyards, Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnay stands as a benchmark not just for the region, but for Australian Chardonnay as a whole. Established by the Horgan family in the 1970s, the estate rose to prominence under revered winemaker Bob Cartwright, whose work helped define the Art Series style for decades. Today, Phil Hutchison carries that legacy forward, refining a wine known globally for its balance of power, precision and extraordinary longevity. Grown on gravelly loam soils with strong maritime influence, the fruit achieves full flavour ripeness while retaining striking natural acidity, placing it firmly in the conversation alongside Grand Cru Burgundy, often at a fraction of the price. Drink 2026-2036.

2023 was a long, dry, mild season in Margaret River (certainly in the context of white wine), although there was some rain at the end of the season that, depending on the location of the vineyard, caused some challenges for some producers. From my viewpoint up in Perth (some 276 kilometers north), the season seemed to roll out in a most restrained fashion. I have been very excited to try the premium white from this season and indelibly curious about the premium reds. Tasted as a barrel sample in January 2024, this 2023 Art Series Chardonnay is inchoate at this stage, but it shows all the finesse and precision of the year that I was expecting. At this point, it is floral and waxy and defined very much by lashings of aromatic pear in every way you like it: poached, baked or fresh cut. There's loads of time before this wine will be ready for release, but I feel we will be in for a treat. Drink 2030-2055.

96-98 points Erin Larkin, Wine Advocate, February 2024

A brilliant pale gold with green flashes signals both concentration and freshness. Aromas are intensely layered, white peach, nectarine and citrus curd unfolding into nougat, cashew, struck match and fine spice. With air, more complexity emerges, oatmeal, lemon blossom and a subtle saline edge, each element seamlessly integrated.

The palate is both expansive and precise, delivering waves of stone fruit and citrus wrapped around vibrant acidity and a powerful mineral core. Texture builds through the mid palate with notes of brioche, hazelnut and fine oak, yet everything remains balanced, never heavy, always controlled. The finish is long, detailed and persistent, carrying both richness and energy in equal measure. This is a Chardonnay built for the cellar, evolving effortlessly over fifteen to twenty years into honeyed, nutty, deeply savoury territory while retaining its line and structure.

Butter poached marron, lobster with citrus butter, or roasted spatchcock with herbs and pan juices. Beethoven’s Symphony No 7 or something equally commanding like Mahler’s Fifth, the wine unfolding in movements, layered, powerful and completely absorbing.