2023 Les Heritiers Du Comte Lafon Vire-Clesse, Burgundy

A similar colour with a green streak, and quite a steely nose. Here the weight of the fruit sits at the back of the palate, ripe citrus notes, otherwise white fruit, plenty of energy, not too much sucrosity, relatively classic.

89-91 points Jasper Morris insideburgundy.com Drink: 2025-2029

The 2023 Viré-Clessé has a lively bouquet with more yellow fruit than the other cuvées and touches of beeswax that develop in the glass. The palate is poised on the entry, lightly spiced with impressive harmony, a “fluid” Viré-Clessé with a persistent finish. A notch above the 2022.

90 points Neal Martin vinous.com Drink: Now-2036 

Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon Viré-Clessé is a beautifully expressive white Burgundy from the southern Mâconnais, crafted with the same attention to detail and biodynamic principles that define the iconic Domaine des Comtes Lafon in Meursault. Viré-Clessé is an appellation known for its fresh, mineral-driven Chardonnay grown on clay-limestone soils, and this cuvée offers an elegant balance of purity, texture and depth.

The fruit comes from organically and biodynamically farmed vineyards on the slopes between Viré and Clessé, where long sunlight hours and cool nights create ideal ripening conditions. The grapes are hand harvested and fermented with indigenous yeasts in a mix of large oak foudres and stainless steel tanks, followed by ageing on fine lees to enhance complexity and mouthfeel without overt oak influence.

The nose opens with aromas of white flowers, ripe citrus, green apple and crushed stone. On the palate, the wine is medium bodied and vibrant, with flavours of lemon curd, nectarine, almond and a firm mineral backbone. There’s a creamy mid-palate texture balanced by crisp acidity and a long, precise finish.

Food pairing: perfect with grilled scallops, roast chicken, goat cheese tart, shellfish, or creamy risotto. Also excellent with herbed fish dishes or mild soft cheeses.

Cellar potential: enjoyable now for its freshness and detail, but will evolve gracefully over 6 to 8 years, developing more nuttiness and savoury depth.