2023 Lethbridge Hillside Haven Pinot Noir Biodynamic, Geelong

Savory-edged and mineral, with a hint of reduction. Red-fruited aromas are layered with notes of cured meats, dried herbs and crushed stones. The palate is mid-weighted, firmly framed yet silken, with a plush, rounded mouthfeel. An excellent single-vineyard bottling, with well-integrated structure and a mineral core. Drink or hold."

95 points, James Suckling

Hillside Haven vineyard in Geelong's cool climate showcases biodynamic Pinot Noir at its most precise and mineral driven, planted on ancient volcanic soils that impart distinctive structure and tension. The site's elevation and exposure to southerly winds create challenging conditions that stress the vines naturally, concentrating flavors while maintaining the vibrant acidity essential to world class Pinot. The 2023 vintage brought textbook ripening weather, allowing Ray Nadeson to craft a wine of remarkable elegance and complexity that speaks eloquently to both place and meticulous farming practices.

Brilliant ruby with translucent edges, the wine reveals layered aromatics: red cherry, wild strawberry and raspberry mingle with rose petal, dried thyme and forest floor. There's a captivating savory thread running through it, hints of beetroot, turned earth and black tea adding depth, while subtle woodsmoke and graphite speak to the volcanic terroir. The palate is medium bodied and beautifully balanced, delivering bright red fruit flavors of cranberry, pomegranate and blood orange over fine grained tannins. Crisp acidity provides lift and energy, driving a long finish marked by mineral, spice and earthy complexity.

Serve alongside roast quail with cherries and thyme, where the wine's delicate fruit and savory notes create harmony, or try seared duck breast with beetroot and orange that echoes its earthy character. The Pinot pairs brilliantly with mushroom risotto studded with truffle, rare tuna loin with sesame crust, or charcuterie featuring duck liver pâté and aged salami. Vegetarian dishes like roasted beetroot with goat cheese and walnuts, eggplant parmigiana, or grilled portobello with herbs all complement the wine's elegant structure. Aged Gruyère, creamy Brie or washed rind cheeses provide excellent companions.