2023 Lethbridge JD Drumborg Chardonnay, Henty

Lethbridge has long been one of Victoria’s most thoughtful cool climate producers, with Ray Nadeson and Maree Collis crafting wines that balance precision, texture and genuine vineyard expression. The JD Drumborg Chardonnay comes from the windswept Henty region in south western Victoria, where cold Southern Ocean influences and ancient soils create some of Australia’s most tightly wound and mineral driven Chardonnay. Named in tribute to the vineyard grower, this wine captures both the rigor and purity that make Henty such a compelling but often underrated region.

The 2023 vintage is intensely focused yet beautifully layered. Aromas of grapefruit zest, white peach and lemon curd rise from the glass alongside struck flint, roasted cashew and subtle smoky spice. There is a remarkable tension through the palate, with bright acidity and chalky minerality driving the wine forward while careful lees work and restrained oak add texture and savoury depth. The finish is long, saline and incredibly precise, lingering with citrus oil, wet stone and fine creamy complexity.

This is serious Australian Chardonnay built for both the table and the cellar. Fresh oysters, lobster with beurre blanc or roast chicken with tarragon would all be sensational pairings. It also shines beside scallops, creamy mushroom dishes or delicate seafood pasta where the wine’s freshness cuts beautifully through richer textures. Given a little time in the glass, more layers of nuttiness, flint and mineral detail slowly emerge, making it every bit as compelling as many top white Burgundies.