2023 Lethbridge Menage A Noir Biodynamic, Henty

Ray Nadeson describes the Ménage à Noir Pinot Noir as “Lethbridge-lite”; we prefer to think of it as the opening act to this producer’s impressive suite of Pinot Noirs. It’s a blend of sites, but the lion’s share (75%) comes from Jack and Lois Doeven’s cool site in Drumborg (Henty). This low-yielding vineyard with well-established vines was planted in the 1980s and rooted in schist soils. The balance of the fruit comes from Geelong.

The destemmed fruit ferments in a combination of 5,00-litre open vats and 3,000-litre wooden fermenters; the fruit in the vats gets punched down, while the fruit in the wooden fermenters is pumped over daily. The wine then matures in a mixture of old and new (approximately 10%) French oak of various sizes (225/300/2,500 litres).

Bright, fresh and vibrant on the nose, it’s equally vivid on the palate. The signature Lethbridge energy and raciness are balanced nicely by perfectly ripe berry fruits, earthy spice and a crunchy, sappy and lasting close. A real winner, and fine value.