2023 Loosen Barry Wolta Wolta Riesling, Clare Valley

The wine is matured in a 3000L foudre and fermented with wild yeast. This is out of the box. Excellent, to give the crib notes. Medium-weight riesling of texture and great interest, plus deliciousness. Savoury elements ripple through in sourdough and cashew nut complexity with red apple, gentle, sweet stone fruit characters, blackcurrant, faint tropical fruit notes and a little leafy, herbal complexity. It's highly perfumed, deeply flavoured, glossy and long in its persistence. Sublime stuff here.

96 points Mike Bennie for Halliday Wine Companion

Loosen Barry is one of the most exciting partnerships in Australian wine, bringing together Ernst Loosen of Germany's legendary Dr Loosen estate and Peter Barry of Clare Valley icon Jim Barry Wines. Their shared passion for Riesling and belief in the potential of Australian terroir has produced wines that blend German precision with unmistakable Clare Valley character.

Wolta Wolta, meaning "good water" in the local Indigenous language, is sourced from the cool higher altitude vineyards of the Clare Valley. The combination of warm days, cool nights and ancient soils creates Rieslings of remarkable intensity and longevity, while the influence of Ernst Loosen brings a focus on purity and site expression.

The colour is a brilliant pale straw with youthful green highlights. Aromas of freshly squeezed lime, lemon blossom and green apple leap from the glass alongside hints of jasmine and wet stone. The palate is tightly wound and energetic, layering vibrant citrus flavours over a fine mineral spine. There is wonderful concentration here, balanced by bright acidity and a finish that is long, dry and mouth watering.

A perfect match for Coffin Bay oysters, grilled Spencer Gulf prawns, fresh crab, Vietnamese rice paper rolls or goat cheese and herb tart. Delicious in its youth yet built to reward careful cellaring for well over a decade.