2023 Luís Seabra Xisto Cru Branco Douro, Portugal

Rabigato-based white, showing discreet aromas of lime and apple with a stony austerity. The palate is medium- to full-bodied, expressive and tense, with a thread of precisely delineated fruit. Sourced from three old high altitude vineyards in Meda. Delicious already, but will improve with bottle age. Aged in neutral French oak for two winters. Drink or hold.

97 points James Suckling

From the steep, terraced slopes of the Douro, where schist soils fracture underfoot and vines cling to the landscape, Luís Seabra continues to reshape expectations of what the region can do with white wine. After years working with some of the Douro’s most established houses, Seabra set out on his own path, focusing on old vineyards, higher altitude sites and a lighter touch in the cellar to capture detail and freshness.

Xisto Cru Branco comes from old mixed plantings rooted deep in schist, often at elevation where cooler nights help preserve acidity. Traditional Douro white varieties such as Rabigato, Codega, Viosinho and Gouveio typically form the backbone, each bringing a different element, structure, aromatics and texture. The result is a wine that reflects both the rugged landscape and a more refined, modern approach.

Pale gold with a subtle green edge, the aromatics are layered and quietly complex. Citrus peel, lemon and grapefruit lead, followed by white peach, wild herbs and a gentle smoky, flinty note that speaks clearly of the schist soils. There is a savoury edge that builds with air.

The palate is textured yet tightly coiled, stone fruit and citrus carried over a mineral driven frame. A fine line of acidity keeps everything focused, while a subtle grip and layered complexity give the wine real presence. Hints of spice, crushed rock and a faint saline note linger through a long, precise finish.

This is a wine that thrives with food. Grilled fish with olive oil and herbs, roast chicken, or dishes built around shellfish all sit beautifully alongside its texture and freshness. It also handles richer preparations, where that mineral backbone cuts through.

Drink it now with a bit of air, or cellar for eight to twelve years as it develops more honeyed, nutty and savoury complexity.

There is a real sense of place here, a wine carved from stone, shaped by altitude and guided by a winemaker intent on showing the Douro in a more detailed, expressive light.