2023 Man O' War Dreadnought Syrah, Waiheke Island

Balanced, focused, textured and spicy, expressing aromas of dark cherries, plums and some roasted meat. Medium-bodied with plush tannins. A dense core of purple fruit mingles with savory notes and a touch of peppercorns in the flavorful, persistent finish. Sustainable. Drink or hold.

93 points Kevin Davy for James Suckling, March 2026

The Spencer family has farmed the eastern end of Waiheke Island for over a century — a 4,500-acre coastal property of rugged hillsides, cliffs and sheltered bays that Captain James Cook noted for its towering kauri trees in 1769. Vines were first planted in 1993 across steep hillside blocks, each with its own soil profile and microclimate. Today 150 acres of dry-grown vines spread across 76 individual blocks, with winemaker Duncan McTavish and vineyard manager Matt Allen steering Man O’War for over a decade. The estate has become known particularly for its well-structured Bordeaux-style blends and Syrah wines that display a maritime edge reflecting both the ruggedness of the site and the warmth of the island’s sheltered valleys.

The 2023 was a challenging season for Waiheke and shaped by La Niña. Persistent rain, high humidity and severe storms required meticulous vineyard management practices, but those who persisted enjoyed good weather over the harvest time. The wines are somewhat lighter but often highly aromatic and enjoyable earlier than those released from warmer years.

Seven small hillside vineyards across the island contributed to the 2023 Dreadnought. Hand harvested, the bunches were mostly de-stemmed. A small portion of whole clusters were included for aromatic lift, complexity and texture. Wild fermented in open-top vessels, with gentle pump-overs and pressed into a combination of seasoned and new French oak puncheons for malolactic fermentation. Matured for 18 months before the final blend, with a further three-month rest in stainless steel prior to bottling.

Black olives, cracked pepper and wild herbs wrap around dark fruit on the nose that also reveals ferrous, saline and meaty touches with extended time in the glass. The palate is precise and detailed, continuing the theme of dark fruit and meats. It is held together by taut acidity and graphite-like tannins and finishing with long smoky and saline notes.

This wine excels with charcoal grilled dishes: Blistered snake beans with fermented mustard greens, grilled octopus with sansho pepper and black sesame or cumin rubbed lamb shoulder skewers.

Decant to enjoy now and cellar for a couple of years for the wine to fully reveal itself.