2023 Marquis d'Angerville Volnay 1er Cru Champans Magnum 1.5L, Burgundy

Bright mid purple. This is stricter on the nose, less ripe at first but with the same rich deep raspberry fruit emerges behind, with an extra burst in the middle of the palate and a slightly more austere finish. Plenty to enjoy here and really very persistent Drink from 2033-2040.

93-95 points Jasper Morris MW

Domaine Marquis d’Angerville is one of the great reference points of Volnay, with the family established in the village for more than two centuries. Jacques d’Angerville helped change the course of Burgundy by championing estate bottling and the identity of individual vineyards, a philosophy continued by his son Guillaume since 2003. Among the domaine’s superb collection of Premier Crus, Champans is a particularly important wine, combining Volnay’s celebrated perfume with more muscle and depth than the village stereotype might suggest.

Champans sits on the southern side of Volnay, below Taillepieds, on a well exposed slope of limestone and clay. It is one of the larger and most highly regarded Premier Cru vineyards in the appellation. The site tends to produce generous, complete Volnay, with greater breadth and flesh than Taillepieds while retaining the fragrance and mineral freshness that make the commune so compelling. In the hands of d’Angerville, it is a serious Burgundy with a long future ahead.

Bright ruby garnet with ripe red cherry, raspberry and wild strawberry, followed by violet and peony. Redcurrant and blood orange add freshness, while anise, clove and black tea gradually emerge with air. The palate has lovely depth, with succulent red fruit through the centre supported by fresh acidity and finely sculpted tannins. Cherry and raspberry give way to orange peel, subtle earth and limestone, finishing long, savoury and beautifully composed.

Roast duck with mushrooms and a red wine jus has enough richness for Champans, while quail with lentils, porcini pappardelle or a mushroom and Gruyère tart will play beautifully with its earthy, savoury side. This is worth giving plenty of air if curiosity wins while it is young, although a few quiet years in the cellar will be handsomely rewarded.

Cellaring: Drink from 2029 to 2048+.