2023 Massena Surly Muse, Gomersal Barossa Valley

Light and cloudy in colour with enticing aromas of tropical and stone fruit. Flavours of nectarine, passionfruit and lychee dominate with subtle hints of spice from partial oak maturation.

94 points Sam Kim for Wine Orbit

Massena was established in 2000 by Barossa locals Jaysen Collins and Dan Standish. Their aim was for Massena wines to have character, balance and a sense of the enjoyment they have in the whole winemaking process. The never ending search for great vineyards has culminated in welcoming Stonegarden custodian Glen Monaghan into the collective.

The Surly Muse fruit comes from a vineyard in the Gomersal sub-region. Planted on red iron ridge soils that are dry and low-yielding by nature, the south-facing aspect slows ripening and preserves natural acidity. The 2023 one is 100% Viognier. Picked early, whole bunch pressed, fermented without cultured yeast and aged on lees for seven months in a combination of stainless steel and seasoned French oak hogsheads. Bottled unfiltered in October that year.

The light, cloudy colour signals the winemaking approach for this wine. The nose is lifted and aromatic, tropical and stone fruit forward, nectarine, passionfruit and lychee with a thread of spice from the oak. The palate is textural and fresh with bright natural acidity and a clean, lingering finish.

One of the trickier varieties to get right in the vineyard as well as the winery, let alone at the dinner table. A great experience when stars align. This one is fresh, but with a nice weight and texture too. Should work with a nice spread of dishes. Viognier aromas and flavours tend to mix well with ginger, milder chillies, tomato, saffron and coconut. Just resist overt richness, pick a couple, and balance things out to suit your taste buds