2023 Montalto Estate Pinot Noir, Mornington Peninsula

At first, this comes across as pretty, tangy and juicy, enticing with its heady aromas and flavours. But there’s detail and structure, too. In the mix, rose petals, red and black cherries with exotic spices – almost an Indian combo of cardamon and turmeric. The palate is layered with superfine tannins and matching acidity. A very satisfying drink.

95 points Jane Faulkner winecompanion.com.au

Montalto Estate Pinot Noir from the Mornington Peninsula is a beautifully composed, site-driven red that shows the full potential of this cool, maritime region. It’s crafted from select parcels across Montalto’s home vineyards in Red Hill and Main Ridge, where the cool nights and volcanic soils deliver fruit with finesse, perfume and natural acidity. The Estate bottling sits in the sweet spot of the Montalto range — more layered and serious than Pennon Hill, yet still generous and inviting in its youth.

Winemaker Simon Black treats Pinot Noir with a gentle hand, using wild ferments, a mix of whole berry and whole bunch (typically 10–20%), and maturation in French oak barriques (about 25% new). The goal here is to express the vineyards’ natural spice and tension without overworking the fruit. The result is a Pinot Noir that is fine-boned, aromatic and grounded in place.

In the glass, it shows lifted aromas of cherry, raspberry, rose petal, Szechuan pepper and forest floor. There’s a subtle smoky thread and savoury undertones that add complexity without weight. The palate is silky and mid-weight, with red berry fruit layered over fine tannins and a mineral, graphite-like structure. Acidity is bright but beautifully integrated, giving the wine length and definition.

Food pairing: Brilliant with duck breast and cherry glaze, grilled quail, mushroom risotto with thyme, or salmon sashimi with soy and ginger. Also pairs beautifully with soft rind cheeses or wild mushroom pizza.

Cellar potential: Drink now with a short decant for maximum fragrance, or cellar for 6–10 years as it develops earth, spice and more savoury depth.