2023 Montalto Single Vineyard Merricks Block Pinot Noir, Mornington Peninsula

Highly perfumed with florals and wafts of exotic spices, from chermoula to sumac, with no shortage of just-cut herbs and raspberry leaf. It’s laden with cherries – fresh ones and compote, a little sweet-sour edge but juicy and vibrant with sinewy, if tooth-coating, tannins. All the single-site pinots highlight the acid drive of vintage ’23, and this too needs more time in bottle. But, if you can’t wait, decant and have hearty fare at the ready.

94 points Jane Faulkner winecompanion.com.au

Montalto Single Vineyard Merricks Block Pinot Noir is one of the most soulful and site-driven wines in the Montalto range — a deeply expressive red that captures the nuance, perfume, and silken power of the Mornington Peninsula at its finest. This particular block in Merricks, planted in 1990, sits in a cool, elevated pocket with excellent drainage and exposure, producing low yields of small, intensely flavoured berries. It’s a vineyard that consistently delivers Pinot with elegance, spice and structure — and under Simon Black’s watchful eye, the results are extraordinary.

Simon Black is known for his sensitive, layered approach to Pinot Noir. With Merricks Block, he uses a mix of whole berry and whole bunch (around 15–25%, depending on the vintage) to add aromatic lift and savoury complexity. Fermentation is wild and small-batch, followed by maturation in French oak barriques (about 30% new) to enhance texture without overpowering the fruit.

In the glass, this Pinot Noir is perfumed and pure — wild strawberry, cranberry, pomegranate and black cherry, interwoven with rose petal, five-spice, forest floor and just a whisper of smoky oak. The palate is finely structured and focused, with silky tannins and beautifully judged acidity giving it drive and length. It’s not about weight — it’s about presence, shape, and detail.

Merricks consistently produces one of Montalto’s more refined and savoury Pinot Noirs — less flashy fruit, more old-world texture and quiet power. It’s a wine that unfolds with time and food, making it incredibly rewarding at the table and in the cellar.

Food pairing: Perfect with roast duck breast and cherry jus, mushroom and truffle gnocchi, crispy-skinned salmon with lentils and pancetta, or thyme-roasted quail. For cheese, opt for a mild washed rind or Comté.

Cellar potential: Beautiful in youth with its perfume and finesse, but will evolve gracefully over 8–12 years, developing more earthy, secondary character and lengthening the savoury profile.