2023 Moss Wood Chardonnay, Margaret River

One of the best chardies yet from Moss Wood, and that’s saying something with the quality of wines over the years. The nose is an immediately captivating combo of lemon curd, quince and cashew with just a subtle lift of zest. The palate has a sprightly energy with a crisp chalky acidity sustaining and focussing through to a very long finish, The winemaking approach is fairly simple with no wild yeasts, but the result is outstanding.

97 points rayjordanwine.com.au

Moss Wood Estate Chardonnay from Margaret River is a polished, full-flavoured white that stands among the region’s finest — a wine that combines generous fruit, creamy texture and bright acidity in perfect balance. Made from the original Moss Wood vineyard in Wilyabrup, this Chardonnay reflects both the power of site and the precision of Keith Mugford’s winemaking. It's a wine with richness, but always guided by clarity and restraint.

The estate vineyard, planted in 1976, sits on gravelly loam soils over clay and benefits from maritime breezes that help maintain freshness and aromatic definition. Winemaking follows a traditional Burgundian-inspired approach: hand-picking, whole bunch pressing, wild yeast fermentation in French oak (roughly 50 percent new), full malolactic fermentation, and extended maturation on lees with regular stirring. The result is a Chardonnay with depth and structure, but also elegance and poise.

In the glass, it shows aromas of white nectarine, lemon curd, cashew, nougat and subtle flint, with hints of brioche and struck match. The palate is layered and creamy with citrus and stone fruit richness, fine acidity, and beautifully integrated oak. There's a lingering mineral line and a savoury edge that adds length and tension.

Food pairing: Outstanding with roasted chicken and tarragon, lobster tail with garlic butter, seared scallops, or wild mushroom and thyme tart. Pairs beautifully with hard cheeses like aged Gruyère or creamy washed rind styles.

Cellar potential: Delicious now with a short decant, but will evolve gracefully over 8 to 12 years, developing nutty, honeyed and toasty complexity.