2023 Murdoch Hill Artisan Tilbury Chardonnay, Adelaide Hills

A very cool and wet vintage for the Hills would've brought with it many challenges, not that you'd sense it here. The wine saw full mlf to combat the austerity of acids, and while it is still extremely tight and coiled in its youth, this will relax with bottle-age into something remarkable. Citrus, both lemon and lime, with some grapefruit pith and curry leaf, a thread of salinity flush with white stone fruit and crushed rock. It's tantalising, electric and bound to reward patience.

95 points Katrina Butler winecompanion.com.au

Murdoch Hill Artisan Series Tilbury Chardonnay is a precise and sculpted expression of high-altitude Adelaide Hills fruit. Sourced from select vineyards in the Piccadilly Valley and Lobethal, the wine is shaped by cool sites with rocky soils and long, slow ripening. These conditions give Tilbury its crystalline acidity, flinty tension and refined citrus core.

Winemaker Michael Downer focuses on restrained winemaking to preserve site character. The fruit is handpicked, whole bunch pressed, and wild fermented in a mix of French oak barriques and puncheons, around 20 percent new. Full malolactic fermentation is allowed, and the wine rests on lees for texture without losing energy. There’s no fining or filtration, ensuring purity and finesse in the final glass.

Aromas of white peach, lemon peel, almond meal and struck match introduce a wine of serious intent. The palate is layered and mineral, showing grapefruit pith, stone fruit and cashew with a savoury edge and mouth-watering drive. It’s elegant yet tightly coiled, with a saline finish that lingers long after the last sip.

Ideal with grilled marron, roasted chicken with preserved lemon, or a creamy Jerusalem artichoke soup. Soft cheeses like triple cream brie or a crumbly chèvre also make great matches. Drink now for vibrancy or cellar 5 to 7 years for extra depth and complexity.