2023 Nick O’Leary Heywood Shiraz, Canberra District

A youthful purple red in the glass. Lifted and pretty aromas of Asian spice, clovey oak, mulberry, plum, dried herbs and a sweet, stone fruit edge. Bright, blue fruited, mouth-filling and vibrant on the palate. There's real life, crunch and snap to the flavours, as well as textured tannins and a touch of sappy bunchiness. Long and layered. Drink 2025–2035.

93 points Aaron Brasher for The Real Review, February 2025

The ’23 reds from the Canberra region need time to gel and flesh out. This is no exception. Heady aromas of florals, spice and red fruits, vibrant and tangy albeit driven by acidity as tannins are somewhat sinewy. A waft of reduction/cured meat gives this a savoury edge, so it has appeal, but revisit in another year or so and hopefully it’s chilled out.

92 points Jane Faulkner for Halliday Wine Companion, April 2025

Nick O'Leary started making wine in Canberra at 26 as of the talented local young winemakers at Hardy's before they exited the region in 2006. He established his own label immediately, with a simple focus: Riesling and Shiraz from the Canberra District's best vineyards. The estate vineyard sits in Hall Valley in the Murrumbidgee River corridor, just outside the ACT boundary. The Heywood wines are single vineyard expressions from this site and named after his favourite fishing spot in the Snowy Mountains.

Hand harvested from 24-year-old vines, 30% whole bunches and the balance destemmed whole berries, cold soaked for seven days before a 14-day fermentation in small open fermenters. Pressed to one third new French oak barriques from the Allier and Troncais forests for 12 months of maturation.

Nick’s approach here borrows from northern Rhône tradition while remaining firmly rooted in the Canberra style: aromatic, medium-bodied, fine-boned and savoury rather than rich and extracted. Red fruits, sage and lifted white pepper on the nose with brambly dark berry characters and a light dusting of classy oak. The palate is medium-bodied and precisely structured with fine, savoury tannins and the kind of silky, sculpted texture the best Canberra Shiraz consistently delivers.

A wine for a good dinner: roasted duck breast with cherry jus, or a slow-braised lamb shoulder with herbs and a red wine reduction. The wine's fine tannins and savoury spice are good company for anything earthy that deserves a proper glass.

Drink now through 2033.