2023 Nick O’Leary Shiraz, Canberra District

Incredibly bright with a dark red-purple hue; heady aromas of black pepper and Middle Eastern spices with upfront red and black plums. It feels light, easy to drink, with fine tannins and a thin veil of acidity. More a drink-now option, and very happy with that.

92 points Special Value Jane Faulkner winecompanion.com.au

Nick O’Leary Shiraz from the Canberra District is a striking expression of cool-climate Australian Shiraz that bridges the gap between elegance and power with finesse. Based just outside Murrumbateman, Nick O’Leary has become one of the region’s most respected winemakers, known for crafting refined, site-driven wines that consistently overdeliver on quality. His Shiraz has become a benchmark for the region, offering a distinct alternative to the richer styles of Barossa or McLaren Vale.

The fruit is sourced from select vineyards in the elevated granite-rich hills of Murrumbateman and surrounds, sitting between 600 and 700 metres above sea level. These cool conditions, paired with ancient decomposed volcanic soils, yield Shiraz with vivid aromatics, natural acidity and fine tannin structure. Vintage variation plays a strong role here, with O’Leary tailoring his winemaking to suit the nuances of each season.

Fermentation takes place in small open fermenters with regular hand plunging, followed by maturation in a mix of new and seasoned French oak barriques and puncheons for around 12 months. The oak is used judiciously, adding polish without overwhelming the fruit.

In the glass, it’s typically medium-bodied with lifted notes of dark cherry, blackberry, violet, black pepper and graphite. There’s often a gentle savoury edge — think olive tapenade or charcuterie — which adds complexity and regional character. The palate is silky and focused, with fine tannins, fresh acidity and a long, spice-laced finish.

This is a versatile wine at the table. Pair it with grilled lamb cutlets and rosemary, duck with five-spice glaze, or even a mushroom and lentil shepherd’s pie. Drink now or cellar comfortably for 8 to 12 years.