2023 Paolo Scavino Dolcetto d'Alba, Piedmont

Paolo Scavino may be best known for Barolo, but the family has always understood the beauty of Piedmont’s everyday wines too, and Dolcetto is where that philosophy really shines. Grown around Castiglione Falletto, the 2023 captures the freshness and easy charm the variety is loved for, while still carrying the precision and polish that Scavino brings to everything they do.

The nose is bright and immediately inviting. Black cherry, blueberry and ripe plum tumble out first, followed by violet, a little liquorice and a gentle almond note that feels unmistakably Dolcetto. There’s plenty of fruit here, but it stays lively and lifted rather than rich.

It moves with ease across the palate, juicy dark berries wrapped in soft tannins and moderate acidity that make the wine incredibly approachable. A subtle savoury edge and faint spice build through the middle, while the finish carries on with fresh fruit and that classic bitter almond twist.

This is exactly the sort of wine that makes simple food taste better. Tajarin with sausage ragù would be perfect, but it’s just as good with wood fired mushroom pizza, grilled zucchini with mint and pecorino or crispy polenta topped with roasted tomatoes and herbs. Slightly chilled, it becomes dangerously drinkable.

Best enjoyed young while all that freshness and fruit are front and centre over the next few years.

There’s an honesty to wines like this that’s hard to resist, no pretence, just delicious, soulful Piedmontese drinking made with real care.