2023 Paul Chavy Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru En Caradeux, Burgundy

High on the Pernand hillside, En Caradeux is one of those quietly brilliant Premier Cru sites that trades a bit of weight for energy and line. Paul Chavy, part of a Puligny family with deep roots, brings a precise, low key touch here, letting the limestone do most of the talking.

This opens with a cool, lifted profile, lemon zest, green apple and a flicker of white peach, edged by a chalky, almost salty note that gives it real definition. There’s a gentle savoury layer sitting underneath, almond skin, a hint of spice, but it all feels tightly wound rather than broad.

The shape is what stands out. It moves quickly across the palate, medium in weight but driven by a fine, persistent acidity that keeps everything focused. Citrus and orchard fruit hold the centre before it narrows into a long, mineral finish that feels clean and precise, almost chiselled.

Chavy’s approach is very much about restraint, careful élevage, minimal fuss, just enough oak to support the fruit without softening that natural tension.

Food wise, lean into clarity and contrast. Raw kingfish with citrus, grilled prawns with a squeeze of lemon, or even something like tempura whiting with a light dipping sauce all work beautifully. It also handles richer textures surprisingly well, think a buttery crab omelette or a simple roast chicken, where the acidity keeps everything lifted.

Already drinking well for its freshness and detail, but it will build more depth and savoury complexity over the next six to ten years.