2023 Pegasus Bay Chardonnay, Waipara

Planted from 1985 onwards, the Pegasus Bay vineyard sits in Waipara Valley, a 45-minute drive north of Christchurch on New Zealand’s South Island. It enjoys protection from the Pacific’s easterly breezes, a prolonged ripening period with substantial diurnal temperature variations. The alluvial Glasnevin gravel soils here are free draining and low in fertility, resulting in naturally reduced vine vigour.

The Donaldson family, viticultural pioneers in the region, remain the owner-operators of Pegasus Bay. Minimal intervention at all stages from vine to bottle typifies the winemaking approach: sustainable viticultural management, low crop levels, minimal handling of fruit, natural malolactic fermentation and clarification by settling, without the use of fining agents. All wines are made from estate grown fruit.

The Chardonnay in their vineyard is of the Mendoza clone and planted on its own rootstock. The 2023 season was trouble-free for the vineyard despite the variable conditions in the latter half. The fruit was hand-picked in stages over a couple of weeks and trodden underfoot. The free-run, non-clarified juice was wild fermented in primarily well-seasoned French oak puncheons. Partial malolactic fermentation took place at the start of the following season, with a total of 12 months maturation prior to bottling.

The Pegasus Bay Chardonnay is made in an uncompromising rich house style. The nose opens with notable flinty reduction and nuttiness. Complex, with warm and spicy citrus and herbal notes. The palate is full-bodied, with opulent, concentrated fruit flavours of ripe lemons, mandarins, yellow peaches, buttery brown sugar and gingerbread. The refreshing acidity and phenolics add nice grip and extend the flavours on the long finish.

A wine that is a capital letter Occasion needs some drama on the plate: lobster tails with black truffle risotto, or thick wood-fired veal chops with charred corn and bone marrow.

Give the wine plenty of air if patience is not your virtue.