2023 Pio Cesare Langhe Nebbiolo DOC, Piedmont

Pio Cesare has been part of Alba since Cesare Pio founded the estate in 1881, making it one of Piedmont’s great historic family houses. Five generations later, the family continues to work from its remarkable old cellars in the centre of Alba, with vineyards spread across both Barolo and Barbaresco. That access to serious Nebbiolo territory gives the Langhe bottling rather more ambition than its modest place in the hierarchy might suggest.

The 2023 Langhe Nebbiolo is a younger, more immediately approachable expression of the grape than the estate’s Barolo and Barbaresco. It retains Nebbiolo’s unmistakable perfume, freshness and tannin, but without demanding a decade of patience before dinner. There is lovely clarity to the fruit, with enough savoury detail underneath to remind you exactly where it comes from.

Bright garnet red with fragrant red cherry, raspberry and wild strawberry, followed by violet and dried rose. Blood orange and redcurrant add lift, while liquorice, fennel, black tea and a little earthy spice gradually emerge. The palate is medium bodied and energetic, with juicy red fruit, lively acidity and fine, persistent tannins. Cherry, orange peel and tea leaf linger through a dry, savoury finish.

Porcini and taleggio risotto has the earthy richness to meet those Nebbiolo tannins beautifully. Mushroom agnolotti, duck with lentils, eggplant parmigiana or grilled radicchio with hazelnuts and Parmigiano all deserve a seat at the table. Cellaring: Drink now to 2035.