2023 Primo Estate Joseph Moda Cabernet Merlot, McLaren Vale

Made since 1987 in the style of Amarone, which used to appear on the label as Moda Amarone, but has long since been truncated to Moda. And rightly so, as this is individual, born of place and steward. Roasted chestnuts, worn leather, dried tobacco, raisin and antique-shop scents – shellac-ed mahogany and vanillin-perfumed old books. Within lies dried blackberry and blackcurrant, raspberry pastille, licorice powder, green peppercorn, beef jus and cocoa. It’s nowhere near the weight or richness of its Veneto inspiration, being somewhat savoury of fruit and wearing a cloak of glossy oak, though the power and drive is there. This has longevity on its side, and a vigorous decant is encouraged.

95 points Marcus Ellis winecompanion.com.au

Primo Estate Joseph Moda Cabernet Merlot is a bold, luxurious red from McLaren Vale that blends old-world technique with new-world intensity. Inspired by the Amarone wines of northern Italy, winemaker Joe Grilli applies a unique twist to this Bordeaux-style blend: after harvest, a portion of the fruit is air-dried on racks using the traditional moda method, concentrating sugars, tannins and flavour. The result is a wine of richness and depth, but with balance and finesse — a true modern classic in the Australian fine wine landscape.

The blend varies slightly by vintage, but it typically leans Cabernet Sauvignon for structure and definition, with Merlot contributing plushness and mid-palate roundness. After the drying period, the fruit is fermented, then matured in fine French oak barriques for up to 20 months. It’s layered, polished, and unapologetically opulent — but never overdone.

Expect aromas of blackcurrant, dark plum, bay leaf, mocha, dried herbs and cigar box. The palate is rich and seamless, with dense black fruit, dark chocolate, spice and velvety tannins. There’s a fine acid line that keeps it lifted and a savoury note that anchors the finish, giving it both drink-now appeal and serious ageing potential.

Food pairing: perfect with slow-cooked beef ragù, roast lamb with rosemary and garlic, mushroom risotto with truffle, or a rich cheese board with aged cheddar and prosciutto.

Cellar potential: drinking beautifully on release but will evolve over 12 to 15 years, gaining tobacco, leather and earthy depth.