2023 Rieussec Carmes de Rieussec Half Bottle 375ml, Sauternes

Vivid bright fruits, exuberant and full of charm and fragrant white flowers. Most of the estate's Muscadelle goes in here, and it is supple, easy to enjoy, bright stone fruits, nectarine and peach pit. 116g/l residual sugar. Guillaume Crosnier technical director.

92 points Jane Anson

From one of Sauternes’ great First Growth estates, Carmes de Rieussec is the more approachable side of Château Rieussec, crafted with the same meticulous vineyard work but designed to drink a little earlier while still carrying that unmistakable signature of botrytised richness. The estate, owned by Domaines Barons de Rothschild, sits on gravelly clay soils in Fargues, where autumn mists from the Ciron river encourage noble rot to weave its magic through Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc and a touch of Muscadelle.

The 2023 vintage shows a lovely sense of balance, with ripe apricot, candied citrus peel and honeyed pineapple rolling through the glass, backed by saffron, vanilla and a gentle lift of acidity that keeps everything bright rather than cloying. It’s indulgent without being heavy, which is exactly what you want in a half bottle that’s likely to disappear quickly once opened.

This is brilliant with food if you lean a little creative. Think freshly shucked oysters with a squeeze of lemon for that sweet and saline contrast, blue swimmer crab with a touch of chilli, or a roast pork belly with caramelised apple. It also shines alongside aged Comté or Roquefort, but equally works as a late night glass with a simple tarte tatin or poached stone fruit. Drink now for its freshness or hold for 10 to 15 years as those honeyed, marmalade notes deepen and turn more complex.