2023 Speri Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso DOCG, Pedemonte Veneto

Intense, graceful and perfumed, with sweet violets, blood oranges, dry mushrooms, pomegranates and black pepper. Silky and supple on the palate with medium body, crisp and brilliant acidity and firm, crunchy tannins. Long, savory and balanced. Drink now.

93 points James Suckling

Speri is one of the great family names of Valpolicella, with seven generations farming vineyards around Pedemonte in the heart of the Classico zone. The family has remained firmly focused on its own vineyards and traditional local varieties, becoming particularly respected for Amarone while also showing just how good Valpolicella can be at every level. Their vineyards are organically farmed, and Ripasso sits in a particularly useful spot in the range, with more depth than straight Valpolicella without the sheer richness of Amarone.

The Ripasso method gives the wine its distinctive character. Valpolicella, based on Corvina and Corvinone with other traditional varieties, is passed over the skins and lees remaining from Amarone production, triggering further fermentation and drawing additional flavour, texture and structure from them. The 2023 retains the bright cherry character of Valpolicella while gaining darker fruit, spice and a little extra weight.

Deep ruby with black cherry, ripe plum and redcurrant, followed by violet and dried cherry. Liquorice, clove and cinnamon sit alongside dried oregano, cocoa and a faint bitter almond note. The palate is generous but lively, with juicy cherry and plum framed by fresh acidity and supple, savoury tannins. Dried fruit and spice build through the middle before a gently earthy, almond tinged finish keeps everything distinctly Veneto.

Pappardelle with duck ragù is hard to argue with here, while grilled pork with fennel, eggplant parmigiana or polenta topped with porcini and Parmigiano all suit its combination of richness and freshness. It has enough substance for cool weather cooking without requiring the full commitment of an Amarone.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2035.