2023 Stefano Lubiana La Roccia Pinot Noir Biodynamic, Derwent Valley

Intense, perfumed aromas of dark cherries, raspberries and dried roses with black tea, crushed rocks and sandalwood. The powerful, tightly wound palate has bright acidity and firm tannins, showing pomegranate, blood oranges and pencil shavings yet with a subtle, earth-driven finish. Long, mineral and age-worthy. Excellent. One of the finest pinots in the new world. Drink or hold.

98 points jamessuckling.com

From one of the most distinctive, rock strewn sites in the Derwent Valley comes a Pinot Noir that sits at the summit of Stefano Lubiana’s biodynamic range. La Roccia, translating to the rock, takes its name from the sandstone and gravel dominated soils that define this parcel. These free draining, mineral rich soils naturally limit vine vigour, producing low yields of intensely flavoured fruit. Stefano and Monique Lubiana established the estate in 1990 and were early champions of certified biodynamic viticulture in Australia. Today the family continues that philosophy, farming with a deep respect for soil health, biodiversity and natural balance, allowing the vineyard to speak with clarity and precision.

Deep ruby with subtle garnet reflections, the aromatics are complex and slowly unfolding. Black cherry, dark plum and wild strawberry layer over rose petal, five spice and a savoury undertone of forest floor. There is a pronounced mineral edge, almost ironstone in character, that reflects the rocky vineyard and cool Tasmanian climate.

The palate is medium to full bodied with impressive structure and quiet power. Concentrated red and dark berry fruit forms the core, supported by firm yet refined tannins and vibrant natural acidity that drives length. Subtle oak influence adds texture and spice without dominating the fruit. The finish is long, savoury and stony, lingering with dried herbs, cherry skin and earthy nuance. It is a Pinot Noir of depth, tension and serious ageing capacity.

Pair with roast duck, venison loin, slow braised beef or mushroom and truffle dishes. While compelling in its youth with a careful decant, this biodynamic Tasmanian Pinot Noir is built to cellar for fifteen to twenty years, developing layers of dried rose, undergrowth and savoury tertiary complexity.