2023 Sylvain Cathiard Nuits St Georges 1er Cru aux Murgers, Burgundy

More ruby than crimson. The fruit is a little more restrained, but perhaps fresher than the Thorey, more in raspberry and cherry. This continues on a well-rounded palate with just a little youthful bitterness to add a level of tension. Will take a little longer to come round. Drink from 2031-2038. Tasted Nov 2024.

93-95 points Jasper Morris MW insideburgundy.com

Sylvain Cathiard Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru Aux Murgers from Burgundy is a wine of remarkable intensity, perfume and precision, embodying the sensual, seamless style that has made the Cathiard family one of Burgundy’s most revered producers. Under Sébastien Cathiard, the domaine has achieved near-mythical status for its pure, textural Pinot Noirs that translate vineyard character with breathtaking clarity. Aux Murgers, one of the finest Premier Cru sites in Nuits-Saint-Georges, lies just north of the village near the Vosne-Romanée border — an area known for wines that combine power with refinement.

The vineyard’s stony limestone soils and gentle slope give Pinot Noir of exceptional concentration and mineral tension. Grapes are hand picked and sorted in the vineyard, then fermented with native yeasts in small open vats. The wine is aged for 18 months in French oak barrels, roughly half new, with minimal intervention to preserve purity and texture. Cathiard’s approach — intuitive, delicate, and exacting — allows the site to express both the depth of Nuits-Saint-Georges and the aromatic elegance reminiscent of neighbouring Vosne.

In the glass it shimmers a deep ruby hue with garnet edges. The aroma is captivating and layered, revealing dark cherry, black raspberry and wild strawberry alongside rose petal, spice, forest floor and a hint of truffle. The palate is silky and expansive, with supple tannins and impeccable balance. Concentrated yet graceful, it unfolds in waves of red fruit, spice and savoury mineral notes, finishing long, pure and hauntingly aromatic.

It pairs beautifully with duck breast, roast lamb, mushroom risotto or game birds, and also complements aged Burgundy cheeses and truffled dishes. While seductive young, it will evolve for 20 years or more, gaining layers of sous-bois, spice and earthy depth as it matures.