2023 Thistledown Sands of Time Grenache, Blewitt Springs McLaren Vale

From the Trott vineyard in Blewitt Springs, planted in 1952 to deep sand. Fermented in alternating layers of whole bunches and crushed fruit in concrete; maturation in oak and concrete for 10 months. This is coiled but given air, the potential is evident, if not fully revealed. Blue and red floral notes, dark red cherries, orange oil and a humus-like earthiness. This is presently the most reticent member of the ’23 grenache suite, with acidity feeling vigorous against the tensile complement of tannins, both cinching in the fruit presently. Based on the track record and the impeccable framing of fruit and site that’s already evident, this will grow amply in stature, and what an exciting prospect that is.

97 points Special Value Marcus Ellis winecompanion.com.au

Thistledown Sands of Time Grenache is one of the crown jewels of their portfolio and one of Australia’s most critically acclaimed Grenache wines. It’s sourced from some of the oldest dry-grown bush vines in the world, planted more than 100 years ago in the sandy soils of Blewitt Springs, McLaren Vale. These venerable vines produce minuscule yields, but what fruit they do offer is extraordinary—tiny berries packed with intensity, perfume, and natural balance.

Winemakers Giles Cooke MW and Fergal Tynan MW handle this fruit with the utmost delicacy. Fermentations are largely whole-bunch and wild yeast driven, extracting gently to highlight fragrance and texture rather than power. Ageing takes place in seasoned French oak, chosen to frame rather than dominate, ensuring the character of those ancient vines is what shines in the glass.

The wine itself is haunting and complex. Aromas of redcurrant, raspberry, blood orange and rose petals are lifted by spice, crushed herbs and a faint mineral edge from the sandy soils. The palate has a silken texture, but also remarkable intensity and length, with fine-boned tannins carrying flavours of red fruit, exotic spice and savoury earth. It’s consistently compared by critics to great Grenache from Châteauneuf-du-Pape, but with a uniquely Australian brightness and energy.

Sands of Time has been singled out by both Australian and international critics as one of the finest Grenache bottlings in the Southern Hemisphere. Decanter has placed it among the world’s top Grenache wines, and James Halliday’s Wine Companion has awarded recent vintages scores in the high 90s, often calling it a “modern Australian classic.” Its rarity and critical acclaim have elevated it to cult status, making it highly sought after by collectors.

At the table, this Grenache pairs beautifully with slow-roast lamb, duck confit, Moroccan-spiced tagines, or mushroom ragù. It is just as compelling on its own, where its layers and perfume can be savoured slowly. With the structure and pedigree of these old vines, it will cellar gracefully for 15 years or more, evolving into something truly profound.