2023 Thomas Labaille Sancerre Les Monts Damnes, Loire Valley

From one of Sancerre’s most revered slopes, Les Monts Damnés in Chavignol, this is Sauvignon Blanc with real depth and pedigree. The steep, south facing hillside of Kimmeridgian limestone gives both ripeness and that unmistakable chalky tension, and Thomas Labaille works it with a quiet, traditional approach that lets the site lead.

The 2023 vintage is beautifully poised. Aromatics are precise and lifted, lime zest, grapefruit and green apple, with a hint of white peach adding softness. There is a subtle herbal edge, more fresh fennel and citrus leaf than overt grassiness, alongside a clear flinty, chalky note that speaks of the vineyard.

On the palate it is medium bodied with a firm line of acidity driving the wine. Citrus and orchard fruit sit at the core, supported by a fine texture that gives it more presence than a simple Sancerre. The finish is long and mineral, with a saline edge that lingers and tightens everything up.

Winemaking is handled with restraint, allowing the vineyard character to show clearly without heavy influence from oak or technique.

This is a brilliant match for seafood that leans toward purity. Think oysters with lemon, scallop crudo or freshly shucked prawns. It also works beautifully with dishes like goat’s cheese tart, grilled fish with herbs, or a prawn and chilli pasta, where the wine’s acidity and mineral line keep everything sharp and focused.

Drinking beautifully now for its freshness and precision, it will continue to evolve over the next six to ten years, gaining more savoury, flinty complexity while holding its line.