2023 Utzinger Black Label Pinot Noir, Tamar Valley

A delicately-framed, perfumed pinot noir showing pretty raspberry, red plum and redcurrant fruits with hints of medina spice, an expression of orange oil, charcuterie, dried shiitake, sour cherry, wildflowers, softly-spoken oak, crushed rock and undergrowth. There's a stony sense of space on the palate, airy red fruits meshing nicely with powdered riverstone tannins and minerally cadence.

95 points Dave Brookes winecompanion.com.au

Utzinger Black Label Pinot Noir Tamar Valley is a refined cool climate Pinot Noir from northern Tasmania, crafted by Swiss born vigneron Matthias Utzinger who has become one of the quiet achievers of the Tamar Valley. After training in Switzerland and working in Europe, Utzinger brought a meticulous, Old World approach to his Tasmanian vineyards, focusing on low yields, hand harvesting and gentle handling to express site and season. The Tamar Valley, with its long ripening period, cool maritime influence and ancient volcanic and sandy loam soils, produces Pinot Noir of perfume, structure and natural acidity. The Black Label represents a step up in selection and intensity, showcasing the depth and ageing capacity of Tasmanian Pinot Noir.

In the glass it shows a bright ruby red with garnet hints at the rim. The aromatics are lifted and detailed, revealing wild strawberry, red cherry and cranberry layered with rose petal, subtle spice and a whisper of forest floor. There is a savoury mineral edge that reflects the cool Tasmanian climate and careful winemaking.

The palate is medium bodied and beautifully poised, combining red berry fruit with fine, silky tannins and vibrant acidity. Hints of clove, dried herbs and gentle oak weave through the mid palate, adding texture without overshadowing the purity of fruit. The finish is long, savoury and elegant, with a lingering thread of spice and earthy complexity that speaks clearly of Tamar Valley Pinot Noir.

This wine pairs effortlessly with roast duck, herb crusted lamb rack, grilled Atlantic salmon or mushroom and thyme tart. It is drinking beautifully now with a short decant yet will reward cellaring for eight to twelve years, developing further tertiary notes of truffle, undergrowth and savoury depth.