2023 Vasse Felix Cabernet Sauvignon, Margaret River

Margaret River and Cabernet Sauvignon feel almost inseparable, and Vasse Felix sits right at the heart of that story. Founded by Dr Tom Cullity in 1967, the estate helped put the region on the map, recognising early on that the gravelly loam soils of Wilyabrup and the cooling Indian Ocean breezes were perfectly suited to Cabernet. Under the steady hand of Virginia Willcock, the style remains true to that vision, structured, expressive and quietly powerful without ever feeling overdone.

Blackcurrant and dark plum form the core, layered with cassis, bay leaf and a touch of cedar. There is a fine graphite edge that runs through it, giving that classic Margaret River signature, while subtle oak adds polish rather than weight. The tannins are firm but beautifully shaped, carrying the wine with precision and length, and there is a freshness that keeps everything in balance despite the depth of flavour.

It is a wine that will reward patience, easily cellaring for ten to fifteen years as those primary fruit notes evolve into more complex tobacco, earth and savoury characters. That said, with a good decant it already shows plenty of charm.

Roast beef with mustard and herbs is a natural match, as is slow braised lamb with rosemary, or even a rich mushroom and black garlic dish that plays into its savoury side. This is one for a proper dinner table, where the wine can take its time and show its full range.